| Shaft: Hickory 15" hammer handle (upside down) with slots for spike and head. What was the handle end was carved to provide a tight fit for... Steel collar, ovalised in vise (i.e., squashed carefully). The head is just a 'T' shape cut from 3mm mild steel. No use for serious torquing, but plenty strong enough otherwise - and will bend rather than break if pushed too far. The "tang" of the head goes down almost the length of the collar and its all held together with a pair of high tensile steel bolts (and lock-nuts - the ones with nylon inserts). The pick is a DMM Predator (alpine) pick, because that's what was available at the time. Again, held on with a couple of HTS bolts. The hammer is a steel hex-head bolt, slotted down the threaded shaft and held in place with a loose (non-loadbearing) split pin. Sounds iffy, but it seem to do the job. The rubber grip is just an mountain bike inner tube - very 'tacky' and easily replaced. |
Closeup of the spike fitting

Closeup of the head end
| Shaft: Section of chrom-molly (Reynaulds 531) seat tube recovered from a bent
frame (just ask nicely at a decent bike shop). If you get one from a titanium frame - even better!
Ovalised carefully in the handle section for better feel. The head is similar to the one above, but is fixed to the shaft with a single HTS bolt which just happened to fit the seat clamp thread (see below). The pick is a Camp HyperCouloir. The adze is just shaped from the bike frame top tube - OK for snow, but I wouldn't want to hack out a bivvy ledge in hard ice with it. Rubber grip as above. No spike to mention, just cut the tube off at an angle. Makes the shaft really easy for plunging into hard neve since its just a straight, hollow tube!
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| The head. Note the length of the tang - its a tight fit in the tube and effectively distributes the stresses down the length of the shaft.
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Closeup of what used to be the seat clamp...

... and with the head in place (but not bolted)

Closeup of the adze

If in any doubt, go buy a UIAA approved axe.